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Field guide to Havard

Field guides | May 29, 2019

Field guide to Havard

Havard is one of the few 19th-century Villedieu coppersmiths that survives to this day.

28cm Havard rondeau

Gallery | December 13, 2018

28cm Havard rondeau

I don’t know if I’m going to be able to use this pan.

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Really excited to use this antique rondeau. It has

Really excited to use this antique rondeau. It has enough space to spread out the carrots and onions of this Moroccan chraime braise. And the saucepan in the background is perfect for quinoa— after it’s cooked, I turn the heat off and it keeps things warm while I finish the vegetables. I love using one piece from the 1880s and another from the 1980s — they make great teammates despite their age difference!

When a one-pan recipe calls for a frying pan, ofte

When a one-pan recipe calls for a frying pan, oftentimes I reach for a rondeau instead. It can serve two roles: if I match the rondeau size to the food I’m cooking, I don’t need to crowd stuff in the pan, so I get a nice hot sauté. And when it comes time to add veggies to cook down, the rondeau’s sidewalls keep it all contained. This lovely vintage copper rondeau has been a great utility player for me.

I like having two 30cm copper skillets. I use them

I like having two 30cm copper skillets. I use them side by side all the time — here it’s to sauté some cauliflower rice, and also to cook some ground turkey with masala. Plenty of floor space for the dry sauté for the proteins. Both of these are tinned, probably 1970s or 80s, 2.5mm and 3mm.

This pork fried cauliflower “rice” recipe call

This pork fried cauliflower “rice” recipe calls for a wok, but I don’t have one. Instead I used this stainless-lined vintage Bourgeat 28cm sauteuse bombee. The bowl shape made it easy to stir fry everything together, and the stainless steel lining can take more heat than can a tin lining. Of course, a carbon steel wok is what you really want for high-heat Asian cuisine, but for this Westernized version, this copper-steel hybrid did a great job for me.

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